Food review: Impressive menu at the Lion + Pheasant, Shrewsbury

And yet the Lion + Pheasant, at Shrewsbury, has done just that. Over a period of years, it’s retained two AA rosettes, making it one of the better restaurants in Shropshire. It’s forged close links with producers, managed to provide effective training to new recruits, and employed a number of well-regarded chefs who’ve sought to excel as they’ve created seasonal menus that showcase impressive local flavours.

Inspectors have been dazzled by both the stylish, light and airy interior, as well as the seasonal British food.

“Part of the historic centre of Shrewsbury, this 16th-century coaching inn stood here before the street called Wyle Cop became a bridge over the River Severn. Behind the elegant period façade, there’s a contemporary, minimalist New England-style interior and the imaginative modern British food has a seasonal emphasis.”

The two people who deserve considerable credit for the venue’s success are Jim Littler and Rachel Chidlow, who breathed new life into the venue.

Rachel’s mother, Dorothy, had formerly owned the 16th-century inn, buying it in the 1970s.

The one-time stop-off on the coach route from London to Ireland, had ceased operations in the hospitality trade and it was being used as a depot for a car parts dealer.

Dorothy and her husband saw potential in the higgledy-piggledy collection of eight historic houses and, after several years of renovation work, it reopened as a hotel in 1984.

The premises were leased but fell into disrepair. I’d reviewed once during those lean years, the most memorable moment being trying to swat away a fly while navigating through an interminable dinner.

Dorothy took ownership in 2009 and asked her daughter, Rachel, a Dublin-based interior designer, to give it new life once more.

The resulting hotel, bar and restaurant opened in November 2010 and quickly became Shrewsbury’s finest restaurant and hotel.

Rachel’s design, a mix of Scandanavian and French, combined a light paint scheme, lots of wood and a roaring open fire, making it the perfect place for drinks or dinner.

It’s one thing to effect a change, of course – but quite another to have the commitment and stamina to maintain high standards.

That, however, is what the Lion + Pheasant has done and it remains among the upper echelon on Shropshire’s dining scene.

The interior remains decidedly modern and continues to show the timeless designs that Rachel first introduced more than a decade ago. It’s aged well, neither looking out of time nor in need of a further upgrade. With interior design that was sympathetic to the history of the building, it is comfortable and welcoming, a place where it’s easy to drop one’s shoulders and simply relax.

The menu is impressive. Where some restaurants seek to please all-comers, offering too much choice and inevitably failing to get the details right, or, conversely, offering too little choice – a tasting menu only – The Lion + Pheasant strikes a better balance.

With five starters, five mains, and four desserts, as well as cheese, there are dishes to suit all tastes, as well as a short-but-sweet range of sides, that include indulgent, triple-cooked chips.

I visited for a mid-week supper and was greeted with a smile. First impressions count, no matter how many times a customer has visited a restaurant, and the youthful team were keen and eager to please. That, no doubt, stems from good training and good leadership at the top, where an investment is made to ensure team members master the basics.

The house bread was good. Served with a flavoursome quenelle of butter, it was lightly aerated, had a good crust, and offered pleasing flavour.

The starter was delightful. A cured and smoked salmon tartare had just the right hint of smokiness, while offering plenty of bite and a delightful texture.

Using good quality ingredients is the most important element of any dish and the flavours stood out as a result of the restaurant’s good sourcing policy. The salmon was served with dill crème fraiche, a creamy avocado puree, a hint of lime and toasted bread wafers. It was a pleasing dish that married the aromatic flavour of dill with the welcome bite of the bread wafers and the creaminess of the infused crème fraiche. The avocado was a good addition, with all ingredients working in harmony and achieving a good balance.

The main was just as good. Roast Corbett’s duck was pleasing pink with skin that had a little crunch, though was still a little fatty. The meat had been well-seasoned, rested adequately and it was served with a crisp, herb hash potato, that offered great texture and bags of flavour. A glazed parsnip had echoes of Christmas while a balsamic roasted plum brought the dish together, offered an intoxicating mix of acidulation and sweetness.

There was just enough room for dessert, and as tempting as the apple tarte fine sounded, I opted for a set lemon cream with cassis-marinated blackberries and a house shortbread.

The shortbread was magnificent, short, buttery, and sprinkled with sugar, while crumbling in the hand.

The lemon cream was dreamy and rich, with the gentle citrus flavour ensuring it wasn’t too heavy. The blackberries were a taste of the season, which matched well with the other elements.

The cooking was generally good, where the kitchen adopted a less-is-more approach. Unnecessary elements were thankfully absent and there was a desire to focus on getting a smaller number of components right, and making sure they earned their place on the plate.

Service was good throughout and it was heartening to see that a venue that’s brought so much to Shropshire’s county town continues to provide high standards.

9/10

www.lionandpheasant.co.uk